The reference to the gondolier's shirt is in the first paragraph on page 98 
of the McKeithan book, in the letter titled "Descent of Mount Vesuvius." The 
confusion with the number might be due to the fact that it's chapter 17 of 
the book, but -- according to the note at the end, it was "numbered thirteen 
by Twain." It apparently ran in the Alta California on Oct. 10, 1967.

-- Bob G.


>While updating my website I've found that my page for Chapter 22 of The 
>Innocents Abroad is missing a link to Letter Thirteen.  McKeithan, in 
>"Traveling with the Innocents Abroad", notes that letter 13 was published 
>in the Daily Alta September 16, 1867.  What I find there is the letter of 
>"Mark Twain in Quarantine."  Letter 13 is said to contain his comment on 
>the gondolier's shirt tail.  The Quarantine letter makes no reference to 
>gondoliers. There is some degree of confusion in regards to the letter 
>numbering, however:  #12 is marked Naples, August, 1867;  #14 is marked 
>Venice, July 29.
>Is there, in fact, an article in the Daily Alta labeled as Letter 13?  If 
>so, I would be appreciative of the publication date.