Since I've been in the east for the holidays, I took
advantage of the opportunity to drive down from Toronto to
Hannibal (via Springfield, Illinois) a few days ago, and I
returned tonight.  Before setting out, though, I printed and
brought with me the many suggestions and comments about
Hannibal that were posted to the MT Forum last May and June.

     Unfortunately, the boats on the river weren't running at
this time of year, and it was a bit cold (even for a
Canadian!) to hike around the trails above the town.  A big
advantage of visiting Hannibal at this time of year, however,
is that there are no crowds.  In fact, when I visited the MT
Home and Museum they had to turn on the lights in the exhibit
hall just for me.  They also kindly set up the slideshow,
though I was the only person in the theatre.  In the summer I
imagine they must move crowds in and out of the theatre every
few minutes.

     It was quite exciting to see the boyhood home of MT, of
course, but it was also fantastic to get so close to artifacts
that I'd hitherto only seen in pictures, e.g., MT's Oxford
gown, one of his white suits, his wicker chair, his pipes, an
alleged clipping of his curly hair, his son's death-mask, etc.
I was told that the museum actually has much more stuff, but
not enough room to display it.  Apparently the site will be
expanded to create more space sometime around 1994.

     The first place I visited in Hannibal, however, was the
Becky Thatcher Book Shop across the street.  I've mail-ordered
a lot of books from them, but it was heaven to finally have
easy access to all those MT books under one roof, and I
couldn't resist the chance to take home a sackful.  In my
delirium I even considered buying a Twain placemat but
fortunately got hold of my senses and bought another book
instead.

     I also visited the MT Cave a mile south of town, since
that was recommended by a few Forum subscribers, and it indeed
proved to be enjoyable.  I didn't get to the Rockcliff
Mansion, though, as my time had run out.  Everything in
Hannibal during this non-peak season seems to close around 4
p.m.  However, I'm satisfied with what I managed to do there
in that one day.  Next time I go back I'll also visit the
birthplace cabin, Florida, etc.

     The only unfortunate thing about the trip is that the MT
Museum (unlike the Becky Thatcher Book Shop) doesn't take
credit cards, otherwise I would've bought several more items
there.  This is of course my fault more than anyone else's.  I
carried very little American cash during the trip, and was
usually able to get by well enough with credit cards.  In
Canada we seem to have two banks at every intersection, most
of which will cheerfully convert currency.  In the States,
however, the tellers at all the banks I tried were quite
amused by my attempt to convert Canadian money--even in
Chicago on my way back to Toronto!  I guess that few Canadians
travel in those parts, and those that do are not as naive as I
was.  In other areas of the States, in previous years, I've
been able to get money changed.  I offer this as a warning,
then, to other non-Americans who are thinking of making the
pilgrimage to Hannibal.

     Finally, the roads and amenities along the entire route
were excellent.

     Thanks again to everyone for posting their messages about
Hannibal several months ago.  In the summer I may visit
Hartford and Elmira, and so I'll probably impose on you again
for more advice about visiting those sites.

Taylor Roberts
Univ. of British Columbia