Yes, there is certainly a good deal of unavoidable "fluffiness" in Hannibal, a fact that is unlikely to change anytime soon, since Twain will always be a major industry for the town, and the prospect of visiting Twain scholars outnumbering Tom Sawyer tourists is somewhat remote. Nevertheless, the sensation of standing on the west bank of the Mississippi, with its still uncluttered view of the great river, not to mention Jackson's Island, is an experience which just cannot be duplicated in Hartford or Elmira, the mighty Chemung River notwithstanding. There are yet opportunities to get a measure of the vistas as seen by Sam Clemens, e.g., Lover's Leap and Cardiff Hill, and a few preserved houses in the historic district, in conjunction with sites like the modestly reconstructed Molly Brown House, provide glimpses of Hannibal's history which have not yet been obliterated by the hype of "America's Hometown." Martin Zehr Kansas City, Missouri