Since I've been in the east for the holidays, I took advantage of the opportunity to drive down from Toronto to Hannibal (via Springfield, Illinois) a few days ago, and I returned tonight. Before setting out, though, I printed and brought with me the many suggestions and comments about Hannibal that were posted to the MT Forum last May and June. Unfortunately, the boats on the river weren't running at this time of year, and it was a bit cold (even for a Canadian!) to hike around the trails above the town. A big advantage of visiting Hannibal at this time of year, however, is that there are no crowds. In fact, when I visited the MT Home and Museum they had to turn on the lights in the exhibit hall just for me. They also kindly set up the slideshow, though I was the only person in the theatre. In the summer I imagine they must move crowds in and out of the theatre every few minutes. It was quite exciting to see the boyhood home of MT, of course, but it was also fantastic to get so close to artifacts that I'd hitherto only seen in pictures, e.g., MT's Oxford gown, one of his white suits, his wicker chair, his pipes, an alleged clipping of his curly hair, his son's death-mask, etc. I was told that the museum actually has much more stuff, but not enough room to display it. Apparently the site will be expanded to create more space sometime around 1994. The first place I visited in Hannibal, however, was the Becky Thatcher Book Shop across the street. I've mail-ordered a lot of books from them, but it was heaven to finally have easy access to all those MT books under one roof, and I couldn't resist the chance to take home a sackful. In my delirium I even considered buying a Twain placemat but fortunately got hold of my senses and bought another book instead. I also visited the MT Cave a mile south of town, since that was recommended by a few Forum subscribers, and it indeed proved to be enjoyable. I didn't get to the Rockcliff Mansion, though, as my time had run out. Everything in Hannibal during this non-peak season seems to close around 4 p.m. However, I'm satisfied with what I managed to do there in that one day. Next time I go back I'll also visit the birthplace cabin, Florida, etc. The only unfortunate thing about the trip is that the MT Museum (unlike the Becky Thatcher Book Shop) doesn't take credit cards, otherwise I would've bought several more items there. This is of course my fault more than anyone else's. I carried very little American cash during the trip, and was usually able to get by well enough with credit cards. In Canada we seem to have two banks at every intersection, most of which will cheerfully convert currency. In the States, however, the tellers at all the banks I tried were quite amused by my attempt to convert Canadian money--even in Chicago on my way back to Toronto! I guess that few Canadians travel in those parts, and those that do are not as naive as I was. In other areas of the States, in previous years, I've been able to get money changed. I offer this as a warning, then, to other non-Americans who are thinking of making the pilgrimage to Hannibal. Finally, the roads and amenities along the entire route were excellent. Thanks again to everyone for posting their messages about Hannibal several months ago. In the summer I may visit Hartford and Elmira, and so I'll probably impose on you again for more advice about visiting those sites. Taylor Roberts Univ. of British Columbia