Since I moved to New York from Arizona in 1990, I had always planned to visit Elmira. With Easter weekend off from my second job, I finally got the chance. We had called ahead to the Center for Mark Twain Studies earlier in the week to gain access to the Mark Twain study on the campus of Elmira College. It turns out that the whole place was shut down for spring break, so we didn't get to go into the study - but I'm getting ahead of myself. I've heard that Hannibal is somewhat ambivalent about their connection with Twain. This is not the case with Elmira. As soon as you enter town from the highway, you see a giant billboard saying "WELCOME TO ELMIRA - MARK TWAIN COUNTRY." As you proceed through the main road, there are numerous signs leading to the major Mark Twain sites. Using these, we found the Elmira College campus within minutes, and the octagonal study was plainly visible from the road. As it turned out, the building had windows on all sides, so it was easy to see everything inside without entering. A mile or so past the campus, we easily found the graveyard with the Clemens family plot. Even within the cemetary, there were clearly marked signs leading to the right place. As we walked up to the grave, somebody else was leaving. The main attraction was a row of four rather simple gravestones marking Jean, Susie, Olivia, and Twain. We put flowers on Twain's grave, and looked around the rest of the area. Just behind the four were the graves of Clara and her husband. The grave of Clemens' infant son was found nearby next to the graves of the Langdons. We left Elmira feeling quite satisfied with the experience. Hopefully someday we can go back and see Quarry Farm and the Center for Mark Twain Studies. Terry Ballard Adelphi University