Hi Mary,

      The quote you are looking for is as follows:

Chapter 35, Vicksburg During the Trouble; LIFE ON THE
MISSISSIPPI; (page 379 in the first edition) about six paragraphs
down, in the middle of the section begining with "Those are the
materials furnished by history."  Here is the text:

When one makes his first voyage in a ship, it is an experience
which multitudinously bristles with striking novelties; novelties
which are in such sharp contrast with all this person's former
experiences that they take a seemingly deathless grip upon his
imagination and memory.

Kevin B.