Hartford, for me, is best visited during the Fall Twain Symposium--an excellent opportunity to meet other Twain enthusiasts. It's usually an early October weekend. (Have any details for this year been announced?) Hartford is nearly the opposite of Hannibal. Although I think attitudes are changing, when I first visited, locals seemed barely aware of Twain's extravagant mansion on the remains of Nook Farm. Harriet Beecher Stowe's house, next door to the Twain home, is also worth a tour. I know of no other Twain landmarks except the church he attended. Details of the Asylum Hill Congregational Church may be found in the June 25 issue of Hartford's Twain's World, an online magazine of things of interest in Hartford. Twain's Worlds (no relation to the CD of the same name) may be accessed, along with other internet sites, through Jim Zwick's internet Mark Twain Resources page. The modest Noah Webster home in West Hartford provides a good contrast to Twain's extravagance. Back to Florida, Missouri, does anyone know how to locate the remains of the John Quarles farm? I know much of it was covered by Mark Twain Lake and the farm house has been torn down, but I understand that the Quarles homesite is on private property on high ground. And my out-of-the way thing to do in the Hannibal area: There was a car ferry south of Keokuk, Iowa, near Canton, Mo., I think. As I crossed the Mississippi with only the company of two ferry men on the tiny ferry, I felt I had an idea of what the raft must have felt like to Huck and Jim, a feeling which was not duplicated either on the Delta Queen or the Hannibal Mark Twain "riverboat." Thanks for reading: Larry Marshburne