I recently came across a reference to an essay by Mark Twain entitled 
"Postal Service".  This was in a series of essays written by David 
Graeber included in a book entitled "The Utopia of Rules".  He remarked 
"Mark Twain, who lived briefly in Berlin between 1891 and 1892, was so 
taken with it that he composed one of his only known non-satirical 
essays, entitled “Postal Service,” just to celebrate its wondrous 
efficiency.".  This was in reference to the German postal system.  I 
have been unable to locate this essay by Twain.

I'm casting about for interesting bits about Twain's dealing with 
bureaucracies.  I know there are far too many of them to deal with this 
comprehensively but I do hope to catch the flavor.