At the risk of tooting my own horn, included in my work-in-progress -
Twain's Geography, is a section on A Tramp Abroad, which contains a
fair amount of material on his visit to Heidelberg.  Incidentally, I'm
always on the lookout for constructive criticism and contributions.

https://twainsgeography.com/content/tramp-abroad

On Wed, 2020-02-19 at 01:54 -0800, DENNIS KELLY wrote:
> It is nice to see that Twain’s time in Heidelberg is getting some
> attention. 
> 
> All it needs now is a commemorative  shambling “race” up the
> mountainside from his living quarters to his writing aerie. 
> 
> Dennis Kelly
> 
> 
> 
> > On Feb 18, 2020, at 7:33 AM, Steve Courtney <
> > [log in to unmask]> wrote:
> > 
> > To follow up on Dennis's post, the new Mark Twain Center for
> > Transatlantic Relations in Heidelberg is opening an exhibition on
> > Clemens's German connections and travel, "Travel Is Fatal to
> > Prejudice," in April. The director of the center, Dr. Uwe Wenzel,
> > and the head of the city museum (to which the new center is
> > linked), Dr. Frieder Hepp, visited us in Hartford last spring and
> > we have collaborated on the project, supplying the center with
> > various items, notably a short film (starring Kerry Driscoll and
> > me) displaying the German influences in the Clemenses' lives and
> > furnishings.
> > 
> > The center's English site is here: 
> > https://www.heidelberg.de/1220076.html. Here's the exhibition
> > writeup:
> > 
> > 'Travel is fatal to prejudice - Mark Twain in Heidelberg'
> > 
> > Special exhibition in the MTC from April 25, 2020 to August 31,
> > 2020
> > Opening: April 25, 2020, 4 p.m.
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > In the summer of 1878, Samuel L. Clemens - better known by his
> > pseudonym Mark Twain - spent more than four months in Heidelberg
> > with his family. One result of this stay is an extensive travel
> > diary, which was published in the USA in 1880 under the title "A
> > Tramp Abroad" and was also translated into German at the beginning
> > of the 20th century ("Stroll through Europe").
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > With the special exhibition in the newly founded Mark Twain Center
> > for Transatlantic Relations, we will honor the namesake of the
> > center and show its importance for the transatlantic partnership.
> > In his travelogues he leads us to well-known and lesser-known
> > places in Heidelberg and the region. He used his stay to reflect on
> > real and supposed properties and peculiarities of Germans and
> > Americans.
> > 
> > 
> > All best,
> > Steve
> > 
> > Steve Courtney
> > Curatorial Special Projects Coordinator
> > The Mark Twain House & Museum
> > 351 Farmington Avenue
> > Hartford, Connecticut 06105
> > 860-302-8969
> > 
> > 
> > ________________________________
> > From: Mark Twain Forum <[log in to unmask]> on behalf of DENNIS KELLY
> > <[log in to unmask]>
> > Sent: Tuesday, February 11, 2020 11:46 PM
> > To: [log in to unmask] <[log in to unmask]>
> > Subject: Re: BOOK REVIEW: _Mark Twain's America, Then and Now_,
> > DeMarco
> > 
> > There are plenty of Twain touchstones in and around Heidelberg.
> > 
> > Dennis Kelly
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > > On Feb 11, 2020, at 2:24 AM, Wolfgang Hochbruck <
> > > [log in to unmask]> wrote:
> > > 
> > > I am currently conducting a class on Anglo-American traces in
> > > the Upper Rhine region --- we just visited the Audie Murphy
> > > heroic site in Holtzwihr two weeks ago, and we also tracked Twain
> > > and Henry James in and around Baden-Baden. If i am not mistaken,
> > > this is a picure of the former hotel he lived in during his stay
> > > there.
> > > best
> > > wolf
> > > 
> > > Prof. Dr. Wolfgang Hochbruck
> > > Department of English /
> > > Centre for Security and Society
> > > Albert Ludwigs University
> > > 15 Rempart St.
> > > D- 79098 Freiburg
> > > 
> > > > > Am 08.02.2020 um 04:00 schrieb DENNIS KELLY:
> > > > 
> > > > In San Francisco we have many sites Twain visited and wrote
> > > > about.
> > > > Right in front of our home the city has preserved his passage.
> > > > They may have thought of it as paving the street, but we know
> > > > that the wagon wheel imprints of Twain’s rented carriage are
> > > > under the asphalt.
> > > > 
> > > > 
> > > > Dennis Kelly
> > > > 
> > > > 
> > > > 
> > > > > > On Feb 7, 2020, at 4:56 AM, Barbara Schmidt <
> > > > > > [log in to unmask]> wrote:
> > > > > 
> > > > > The following review was written for the Mark Twain Forum by
> > > > > Kevin Mac
> > > > > Donnell.
> > > > > ~~~~~
> > > > > 
> > > > > _Mark Twain's America, Then and Now_. By Laura DeMarco.
> > > > > Pavilion Books,
> > > > > 2019. Pp. 144. Hardcover $22.50. ISBN-13: 978-1-911641-07-0.
> > > > > 
> > > > > Many books reviewed on the Mark Twain Forum are available at
> > > > > discounted
> > > > > prices from the Twain Web Bookstore. Purchases from this site
> > > > > generate
> > > > > commissions that benefit the Mark Twain Project. Please visit
> > > > > <
> > > > > http://www.twainweb.net>;
> > > > > 
> > > > > Reviewed for the Mark Twain Forum by Kevin Mac Donnell.
> > > > > 
> > > > > Copyright (c) 2020 Mark Twain Forum. This review may not be
> > > > > published or
> > > > > redistributed in any medium without permission.
> > > > > 
> > > > > 
> > > > > Can anyone honestly say they have stood for a moment at a
> > > > > historic site and
> > > > > not imagined the past coming alive? This blending of time and
> > > > > place, past
> > > > > with the present, may be a uniquely human strength, or
> > > > > perhaps a childish
> > > > > weakness. But it is human, and few of us could stand below
> > > > > the steps of the
> > > > > Lincoln Memorial and not hear the echo of Martin Luther
> > > > > King's immortal
> > > > > aspiration, or walk in the pastoral greenery of Gettysburg
> > > > > and not think
> > > > > the quietude ironic, or stand in any Nazi death camp and not
> > > > > be stricken
> > > > > with anger and grief.
> > > > > 
> > > > > Shakespeare said the past is prologue; Faulkner said the past
> > > > > is not only
> > > > > not dead--that it's not even past; and, Mark Twain wrote in
> > > > > one of his
> > > > > letters that the one thing we must remember about the past is
> > > > > that we can't
> > > > > restore it. But none of this wisdom ever discouraged a
> > > > > Twainian, and when a
> > > > > Twainian finds himself in a place where Twain once breathed
> > > > > the air, time
> > > > > and place begin to blur and the present recedes as the tidal
> > > > > past rolls in.
> > > > > 
> > > > > Twainians are not alone: This has long been true for all
> > > > > readers who find
> > > > > themselves at literary shrines, as evidenced by the dozens of
> > > > > books about
> > > > > such shrines that have found eager buyers for more than a
> > > > > century,
> > > > > beginning with several during Twain's lifetime, including
> > > > > Charles F.
> > > > > Briggs's _Homes of American Authors_ (1853), J. L. and Joseph
> > > > > Gilder's
> > > > > _Authors at Home_ (1888), and Theodore Wolfe's _Literary
> > > > > Shrines: Some
> > > > > Haunts of Famous American Authors_ (1895), _Literary Homes
> > > > > and Haunts_
> > > > > (1899), and _Literary Rambles at Home and Abroad_ (1901).
> > > > > Twain's homes
> > > > > were included in the Gilder and Wolfe volumes, and the
> > > > > Langdon family
> > > > > library included a copy of the Briggs book that may have
> > > > > caught Twain's eye.
> > > > > 
> > > > > The literature about literary shrines grew during the
> > > > > twentieth century,
> > > > > and a glance through the bibliographies and indices of more
> > > > > recent books
> > > > > like Ehrlich and Carruth's _The Oxford Illustrated Literary
> > > > > Guide to the
> > > > > United States_ (1982), John Eastman's _Who Lived Where_
> > > > > (1983), Geri and
> > > > > Eben Bass's _U. S. Guide to Literary Landmarks_ (1984), Irvin
> > > > > Haas's
> > > > > _Historic Homes of American Authors_ (1991), and Francesca
> > > > > Premoli-Droulers's _Writers' Houses_ (1995), gives a hint of
> > > > > the extensive
> > > > > literature on the subject.
> > > > > 
> > > > > Twain is included in virtually every such guide, with the
> > > > > focus nearly
> > > > > always on his grand Hartford home or his humble boyhood home
> > > > > in Hannibal.
> > > > > The other places where he lived are sometimes mentioned, but
> > > > > the places
> > > > > where significant events in his life took place are usually
> > > > > ignored or
> > > > > overlooked. Hilary Irish Lowe's candid assessment of Twain's
> > > > > major homes,
> > > > > _Mark Twain's Homes and Literary Tourism_ (2012), was a
> > > > > welcome and
> > > > > much-needed addition to this literature, focusing on Florida
> > > > > and Hannibal,
> > > > > Missouri, Hartford, and Quarry Farm. Steve Courtney's _"The
> > > > > Loveliest Home
> > > > > That Ever Was": The Story of the Mark Twain House in
> > > > > Hartford_ (2011) is a
> > > > > model for such guides focusing on a single location.
> > > > > 
> > > > > The newest addition to this shelf is Laura DeMarco with _Mark
> > > > > Twain's
> > > > > America, Then and Now_, a delightful travelogue of Twain's
> > > > > American
> > > > > meanderings. Sixty-eight places are pictorially documented,
> > > > > then and now,
> > > > > with nearly 200 old and new images, drawings, and
> > > > > photographs, many in
> > > > > color. As the title of this book makes clear, this tour of
> > > > > Twain's haunts
> > > > > and homes is American, and no attempt is made to capture
> > > > > every single spot
> > > > > of ground where Twain spent his time. There are a few minor
> > > > > omissions--the
> > > > > home of the Gilders were Twain stayed after his wife's death,
> > > > > the home of
> > > > > Laurence Hutton where he spent time with some fellow authors,
> > > > > or the homes
> > > > > of friends like Henry Rogers or William Dean Howells where
> > > > > his visits were
> > > > > usually brief. Some Twainians might wish that the Hooker home
> > > > > where Twain
> > > > > and Livy stayed in Hartford while their mansion was being
> > > > > built (and where
> > > > > their son Langdon died) could have been included; it still
> > > > > stands,
> > > > > subdivided into apartments, just a short stroll down the
> > > > > street from the
> > > > > Hartford Memorial. Also not included, but still standing, is
> > > > > Orion's home
> > > > > in Carson City, Nevada (it's now a law office). Orion's last
> > > > > home in
> > > > > Keokuk, where Jane Clemens lived out her last years, also
> > > > > still stands.
> > > > > Other places that were not included have changed completely,
> > > > > like the
> > > > > grassy street corner in Keokuk where the Ivins House survived
> > > > > until the
> > > > > 1950s when it was razed to make room for nearby public
> > > > > housing; Twain gave
> > > > > his first public speech to a group of printers there. Also
> > > > > omitted is the
> > > > > block where the magnificent Lick House hotel stood in San
> > > > > Francisco before
> > > > > it was levelled in the 1906 earthquake, where Twain sometimes
> > > > > stayed, and
> > > > > once hosted a dinner. But the Occidental Hotel, where he also
> > > > > stayed, is
> > > > > included. It too was destroyed in the San Francisco
> > > > > Earthquake, but not
> > > > > before its bar was credited with being the place where the
> > > > > martini was
> > > > > created.
> > > > > 
> > > > > Thinking of this very readable and reliable book as a sort of
> > > > > virtual Mark
> > > > > Twain vacation, it is important to remember that no vacation
> > > > > can include a
> > > > > stop at every possible place of interest. Time, space, and
> > > > > budget intrude.
> > > > > Therefore, calling these absent locations omissions is too
> > > > > strong a word;
> > > > > they are noted here merely for the benefit of Twainians who
> > > > > might have time
> > > > > to seek them out if they find themselves in those locales.
> > > > > More concerning,
> > > > > but still not a major objection, are two colorized images in
> > > > > the book that
> > > > > might unintentionally mislead. Frederick Waddy's famous 1872
> > > > > cartoon of
> > > > > Twain riding a jumping frog has been attractively colorized
> > > > > at page 57; the
> > > > > original cartoon was not in color. A photograph of Twain at
> > > > > page 142 has
> > > > > also been colorized and shows him with dark eyes and a clean
> > > > > white mustache
> > > > > that matches his snowy white hair. A genuine color photograph
> > > > > of Twain
> > > > > taken in December 1908 shows that his eyes were quite blue,
> > > > > and his
> > > > > mustache was heavily stained yellow from his habit of smoking
> > > > > cigars; these
> > > > > details about his appearance have also been confirmed by
> > > > > reliable
> > > > > eye-witnesses. The colorizing process is easier than ever
> > > > > these days, and
> > > > > for that reason it is tempting, but it can innocently distort
> > > > > the
> > > > > historical record.
> > > > > 
> > > > > These quibbles duly noted, they should cause no reader to
> > > > > hesitate
> > > > > embarking on this beckoning itinerary that traces Twain's
> > > > > journey through
> > > > > life. The roster of the places included is impressive, and
> > > > > DeMarco begins
> > > > > at the beginning, in Florida, Missouri with the "birthplace"
> > > > > cabin. Next
> > > > > comes Hannibal, with an 1869 color birds-eye view lithograph
> > > > > that shows
> > > > > steamboats steaming along the Mississippi River as the white
> > > > > town drowses.
> > > > > On the opposite page is a recent aerial color photograph that
> > > > > shows a town
> > > > > that has not substantially expanded its boundaries. This
> > > > > general layout is
> > > > > followed throughout the book. Next come scenes, then and now,
> > > > > from New York
> > > > > (where young Sam Clemens set type in 1852), Philadelphia
> > > > > (where he set type
> > > > > in 1853), and Washington, D. C. (where he first visited in
> > > > > 1854 and would
> > > > > return more than once). Locations in Keokuk, Cincinnati, New
> > > > > Orleans, and
> > > > > Memphis bring the reader up to the Civil War, and then follow
> > > > > Sam Clemens's
> > > > > journey west to Nevada, stopping at the Pony Express station
> > > > > in Hollenberg,
> > > > > Kansas along the way, and then Salt Lake City, before
> > > > > reaching the stage
> > > > > depot in Carson City, Nevada. All are pictured, then and now,
> > > > > and DeMarco's
> > > > > brisk and informed narrative carries the reader right along.
> > > > > 
> > > > > Twain's pictorial life continues to unfold with haunting
> > > > > images of
> > > > > ghost-towns in Nevada, striking street scenes in San
> > > > > Francisco, and scenes
> > > > > from Hawaii and New York City revealing that little evidence
> > > > > survives from
> > > > > Twain's Hawaiian days, but more survives than one would
> > > > > expect in New York
> > > > > City, including the Cooper Institute where Twain and Lincoln
> > > > > both spoke
> > > > > (now the Cooper Union, where President Obama spoke) and the
> > > > > Plymouth
> > > > > Congregational Church, which still serves local parishioners.
> > > > > In Elmira,
> > > > > Quarry Farm and the opera house survive, as most Twainians
> > > > > know, but the
> > > > > lovely grounds of the stately Langdon mansion, where Twain
> > > > > and Livy were
> > > > > married and where their funeral services were held, are now
> > > > > occupied by a
> > > > > strip center that carries the Langdon family name. In Boston,
> > > > > the famous
> > > > > Old Corner Bookstore, where Twain first met Howells, has
> > > > > survived, thanks
> > > > > to the Boston Globe using it as a subscription office for
> > > > > many years; it's
> > > > > now a Chipolte Mexican Grill, but retains its original
> > > > > appearance.
> > > > > 
> > > > > Twain and Livy's first home in Buffalo was razed in 1963, but
> > > > > the carriage
> > > > > house survived, for some years as an eatery, now as
> > > > > apartments. DeMarco's
> > > > > tour, while American, is not strictly American. The Langham
> > > > > Hotel in London
> > > > > puts in an appearance, reflecting Twain's first visits to
> > > > > England in 1872
> > > > > and 1873. Vicksburg, Mississippi and Minneapolis, Minnesota
> > > > > are featured,
> > > > > documenting Twain's 1882 trip on the Mississippi River to
> > > > > gather
> > > > > information and evoke memories. New York City appears again,
> > > > > this time with
> > > > > the building that headquartered Standard Oil, where Twain
> > > > > visited Henry
> > > > > Rogers at his office, as well as the Players Club at
> > > > > Grammercy Park, and
> > > > > the building on West 10th Street where Twain and his family
> > > > > lived after
> > > > > their return to America in 1900--later subdivided into
> > > > > apartments where
> > > > > Joel Steinberg would gruesomely murder his illegally adopted
> > > > > six year old
> > > > > daughter Lisa in 1987. On a happier note, Wave Hill (Twain's
> > > > > home, known as
> > > > > Riverdale) still stands, somewhat expanded in size, but still
> > > > > surrounded by
> > > > > beautiful grounds. Like other places associated with Twain,
> > > > > his home on
> > > > > Fifth Avenue survived into the 1950s before being torn down,
> > > > > and the block
> > > > > is unrecognizable today. The Brevoort Hotel in that same
> > > > > block, where Twain
> > > > > spent a lot of time, was also razed in the 1950s, and on that
> > > > > block now
> > > > > stands the Brevoort Apartments, where Buddy Holly once lived.
> > > > > The tour
> > > > > nears its end about an hour or so by rail out of New York
> > > > > City, at Twain's
> > > > > last home, Stormfield, in Redding, Connecticut, which burned
> > > > > in the 1920s
> > > > > and was replaced with a similar home in the 1930s that stands
> > > > > today on
> > > > > grounds that have shrunken from the original acreage Twain
> > > > > enjoyed the last
> > > > > two years of his life.
> > > > > 
> > > > > Laura DeMarco's lavishly illustrated travelogue traces the
> > > > > entire arc of
> > > > > Mark Twain's busy life and constant movements. She tracks
> > > > > down every place
> > > > > where Twain paused long enough to raise his family in the
> > > > > city, write, give
> > > > > an after-dinner speech, drink, write some more, deliver a
> > > > > lecture, hide out
> > > > > from the authorities, write some more, raise his family in
> > > > > the country,
> > > > > have another drink, try his hand at mining, write some more,
> > > > > set type,
> > > > > watch a football game, or simply be born, or die. Unlike this
> > > > > reviewer,
> > > > > DeMarco presents these places in chronological order, and she
> > > > > accurately
> > > > > describes the relevant details from Twain's life that attach
> > > > > to each place,
> > > > > and provides unexpected and interesting details about those
> > > > > places. The
> > > > > journey concludes with a handy index. Although too big to fit
> > > > > in a pocket,
> > > > > this book will serve vacationing Twainians just as the
> > > > > venerable Baedeker
> > > > > travel guides served Twain's generation, so get some bigger
> > > > > pockets. For
> > > > > those who cannot visit every place Twain visited, this book
> > > > > is the next
> > > > > best thing--a fun and informative way to feel the past and
> > > > > present converge.
> > > 
> > > <IMG_20200117_143025.jpg>