Barbara--

The Villa Quarto may be gone, but Villa Vivani, where Twain wrote the
preface to _Pudd'nhead Wilson_,  is still there.  I visited this site last
year, in Settignano, just outside Florence,   The villa is now a rental for
weddings and and club meetings, but is quite nice with an attractive garden.
When I arrived, I was greeted by a caretaker who took me around and showed
me the suite of rooms where the Clemens family resided.

Finding it is a little tricky.  The via Gabriele d'Annuzio goes up to the
village of Settignano, and  the villa is on the right just at the border
between Florence and Settignano.  The road makes a sharp left  at the
villa's driveway.  It's not terribly well marked.  I rode the bus (if memory
serves, it's the # 10) up to the village and then walked down.  I'd just
about given up, when I saw a small sign for the villa.    Not far from the
main road is the Via Vecchio di Settignano, the old road, which is about ten
feet below grade.  This is the old Etruscan road from the quarries down to
Florence.

It's well worth the time, even if you're not looking for Twain sites. It's a
pretty little vale, and not as heavily traveled as Fiesole, which is also
picturesque and interesting.

I'm envious of your trip.  I can't wait to return.

--LH